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Restaurant L’Orangerie de Montargis

Discovering Montargis, the Venice of the Gâtinais

Half-timbered houses, bridges, walkways, and gastronomic specialties: Montargis is one of those towns that deserve to be visited. Ranked among the «most beautiful back roads in France,» this commune, located a little over a hundred kilometers from Paris, contains unexpected treasures and a true architectural and cultural heritage to discover and share. And what if you, too, were to get lost in the streets of Montargis, the Venice of the Gâtinais?

Striking architecture for a city on the water

Between bridges, passages, Classified monuments and buildings of remarkable contemporary architecture, Montargis is a town that can be explored at your own pace. But why the nickname of the Venice of the Gâtinais? Simply because of its 132 bridges and walkways that, overlooking the Briare canal and the Vernisson, give the city a feel of an Italian floating city.

We are here in a perfect blend of old and modern, in a city where half-timbered houses and historical monuments coexist with Renaissance hotels and a royal castle overlooking the inhabitants from its hilltop. There isn’t a street that doesn’t hold historical secrets; if you love churches and ancient military buildings, then you’ll love Montargis.

It’s sometimes hard to believe that we are so close to the capital, as time seems to have frozen in Montargis. Although the city is dynamic, its old stone buildings and canals still exude an old-fashioned charm; the crazy elegance of the villages of the last century, where it was nice to live, remains intact. The places to visit absolutely? The locks of the Briare canal, the Girodet museum (between the history of the city and the Beaux-Arts spirit), the Sainte-Madeleine church, the Ursulines convent, and the Renée-de-France cultural center. Of course, don't miss the historic district of the Pêcherie, Ideal for having a drink at the end of the day and enjoying the more relaxed atmosphere of the city.

Facade restaurant
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Facade restaurant

Montargis, more than a thousand years of history

While Montargis today captivates with its canals, its past goes much further back in time. A Gallo-Roman vicus extended to the place called « Les Closiers», and the most likely etymology of the city derives from Mons arediacum, the «mountain of the estate of Aredius», which dates its name to the Roman conquest. However, it was in the Middle Ages that the city truly took off, around its castle perched on a hill overlooking the Loing valley. The city developed under the Courtenay family: in 1170, Pierre de France granted a charter of freedom to attract new inhabitants, exempting them from many taxes and tributes.

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The castle then entered the royal domain. Built by Philip Auguste, it housed one of his famous cylindrical dungeons as well as a large Gothic hall, at the time one of the largest in Europe, before Charles V, nicknamed the «second founder of Montargis», undertook major extension and renovation works starting in 1370. The city flourished during the Hundred Years’ War: in 1427, besieged by the English, its inhabitants breached the embankments of the neighboring ponds to drown the enemy camp, and Charles VII rewarded the city in 1430 with great privileges, including the title of Montargis-le-Franc. 

The Renaissance is its last golden age: Renée de France, daughter of Louis XII, retired to the castle around 1561, undertook extensive renovations there and made it a refuge for Protestants. Over the centuries, the building was stripped of its keep under Louis XIV and then sold to entrepreneurs in the 19th century, but its ramparts, vaulted cellars and restored Renaissance gardens still bear witness to this rich past. 

Table in the sun
Table in the sun

Montargis also has surprising historical anecdotes

Beyond its listed buildings and boat tours, Montargis also hides more surprising anecdotes., like his Chinese heritage or his passion for roses.

It should be noted that in the 1920s, several hundred young Chinese intellectuals settled in Montargis. to follow what was then called the work-study program, intended to introduce them to Western techniques. Although this episode remained a true institution in the city, it is because many of these brilliant minds later returned to their home countries, driven by the ambition to transform China and the world. A symbolic photograph exhibited in the city also recalls this period and is still featured in Chinese school textbooks today.

The Venice of the Gâtinais is also known as the rose road. This flower is the subject of a veritable cult: more than 2,000 climbing roses have been planted there in about fifteen years. A large rose garden adorns the town hall forecourt, and many varieties bloom in the city’s pedestrian streets. New plantings take place every year and add to the rose garden of the Sainte-Marie-Madeleine church, with varieties from every country. A walk through the scents and delights of the queen of flowers is absolutely to be experienced in Montargis.

The culinary specialties of Montargis for all your gourmet breaks

Another local specialty that is a must-try: its delicacies. Among the most famous are: The Praseals of the Mazet house and the Dog Droppings of Montargis. An iconic local sweet since 1636, the Praslines Mazet are a treat to be savoured in beautiful vintage metal boxes, for deliciously crunchy moments. Even more surprising are the Crottes du Chien: delicate bites of hazelnut praline coated with nougatine and then dipped in dark chocolate. It’s impossible to leave the city without having tried them!

You will also be able to enjoy generous and delicious meals in the best restaurants in the city. Don’t forget to stop by the Orangerie de Montargis, a bistronomical address to discover for a true return to the flavors of the terroir, revisited with all the elegance.. A table to know for your tour of Montargis.

So, are you ready to come and visit the Venice of the Gâtinais? An unforgettable walk along the water, to discover the city at your own pace during your vacation…